1) Will & Won't
2) Terms of Service
3) Fursuit cleaning
What I will do:
This means I am comfortable with and am happy to include the following in suit commissions within reason.
- Plantigrade fullsuits on commission.
- Realistic / semi realistic fursuits and parts.
- Minor paintwork - dry or wetbrushed.
- LEDs in light coloured tails.
- Large tails with zippers for unstuffing.
- Front body zippers.
- Small horns / permanently attached medium horns.
- Sewn fleece hand paws.
- Glued resin / apoxie / sculpy claws.
- Hand painted eye domes (can paint or source from preferred supplier at commissioners cost)
- Hand sculpted teeth, gums, lips and eyelids.
- Pre-made resin teeth with silicone tongue (DVC usually)
What I won't do:
This means I am not comfortable making the following. This may change in the future with experience.
- Very toony fursuits or parts.
- Wings / harnesses.
- Feet paws (not without a fullsuit commission).
- Clopper hand paws.
- Toony / following eyes.
- Long wefted hair or wigs.
- LED in heads, hands, feet or bodies.
- Back or side zips.
- Removable horns.
- Single colour suits or one fur length.
- Overly complex or intricate designs.
- Lots of bright, garish clashing colours.
- Feet paws with paw pads.
- Make a SPH or alter a SPH suit.
- Padded boobs or abs.
Borderline/Please ask first:
- Glued in silicone hand paw pads (Will not last forever, will likely need touch ups)
- Sewn in silicone paw pads (these are a LOT of work - stitching may be visible or cause tears)
- Parts made from minky fur (very fiddly and temperamental - also time consuming)
- Digitigrade fullsuits on commission.
- Large attached horns.
- Very large ears.
- Fur hair.
COMMISSION TERMS OF SERVICE
1.0 COMMISSION QUEUE:
Commissions should be considered 'long term' completion. They may take 3 months, they make take over a year depending on the scope of commission and the character.
1.1 I try to make things in the order they were requested.
1.1 I do not accept rush orders or queue jumpers.
1.2 I will notify the Commissioner when their commission is finished and final payments are due. Commissioners should avoid asking for status updates too often. Note that it is possible that progress has been made and posted about via Fur Affinity, Weasyl, FaceBook, Twitter or on the website.
1.3 All suit commissions require a clear visual reference. If you cannot immediately provide one you will have to go and get one.
2.0 DEPOSITS AND PAYMENTS:
Deposits are required to be paid to properly secure a commission slot. Deposits partially cover materials purchased to make a commission before the item is paid for in full.
2.1 A deposit will be needed for any commissions valued over $100. Deposits cover materials needed to start work. If no deposit is made work will not commence if I do not have the required materials on hand.
2.2 Parts commissions worth over $100 require half paid upfront.
- Suit head deposits start at $200.
- Full suits deposits start at $400.
2.3 Remaining amounts payable are due on if not before commission completion. Extensions may be granted provided you contact me in advance.
2.4 Payment plans may be accepted for certain individuals. If you are granted a payment plan, stick to it or I will stop accepting payment plans and you will ruin it for everyone else in future.
PAYMENT IS ONLY ACCEPTED THROUGH PAY PAL (INTERNATIONAL CUSTOMERS), BANK DEPOSIT (AUSTRALIAN CUSTOMERS) OR CASH (PERTHFURS).
3.0 WAITING LIST:
When commission slots are full I may offer a slot on the Waiting List.
3.1 Going on the Waiting List is not a guarantee of commission slot. The Waiting List is essentially a confirmation of intent to commission.
3.2 The Waiting List is intended for serious Commissioners. People on the Waiting List agree to pay their deposit upon being moved from Waiting to Current Commissioner status.
3.3 People on the Waiting list are NOT obliged to continue with their commission if they choose to cancel or go elsewhere before their commission slot is open. If you commission elsewhere I need to be informed so I can remove you from the list otherwise it is expected you will continue with the commission and are still holding the deposit funds ready.
4.0 CANCELLATIONS, CHANGES & REFUNDS:
I reserve the right to cancel a commission if I have to.
4.1 If a design turns out to be too complex for me or I can not find suitable materials that the Commissioner agrees on I will not be able to make the commissioned item and will have to cancel the commission.
4.2 In the event I cancel the commission full refunds will be given where appropriate.
4.3 In the event the Commissioner cancels their slot after materials have been purchased they will receive a refund but will forfeit their deposit amount.
4.4 In the event a Commissioner cancels mid-construction their item may be finished later and sold as a pre-made item. Where work is already completed the item may be sold off as is or altered before sale.
4.5 I hold the right to cancel work and sell any commissioned items if:
- the Commissioner is irritating, pushy, rude or abusive.
- the Commissioner goes and commissions someone else for the same item.
- the Commissioner takes too long to arrange pick-up or pay for postage.
- the Commissioner fails to make their final payment when due.
- the Commissioner is unable to be contacted for a long period of time.
4.6 Materials remain my property at all times until the commission is finished and payment is made in full.
5.0 CONTACT & PICK-UP:
Contact is to be made through email (monkau [at] iinet.net.au).
Do NOT contact me via my personal facebook / messenger / mobile.
Avoid FA notes where possible or you may not get a reply for some time.
5.2 I live approx 40 minutes drive south of Perth, Western Australia. Please be aware of the distance required to travel to pick up your items.
5.3 If you have my personal contact details THEY ARE NOT TO BE SHARED WITH ANYONE UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES WITHOUT MY PRIOR PERMISSION.
5.4 I do not accept commissions from minors.
6.0 DUCT TAPE DUMMIES:
Where I require a DTD for a body suit the commissioner will supply their DTD in a good, well constructed condition.
- DTDs should be 2 to 3
layers thick and made from non stretchy cloth tape placed in strips over a painters suit. Do not wrap the tape around and around off the roll or it will be too tight.
- Ensure the crotch is not out of shape or too low or your suit will have a low crotch.
- Make as few cuts to get out as possible.
- Mark crosses on the DTD along where you cut so it can be easily reconstructed.
- Make sure the DTD includes
your neck & goes as far down the wrist and ankle as it can.
- Mark on the DTD your natural belt wearing location - this is where your tail will sit.
If you make a mess of your DTD I will not spend 5 hours reconstructing a dead body for free. I will
either tell you to do it again or have to charge you extra for my wasted
time that I could have used making other items.
If you have a deadline for when you need your item please let me know in advance. I will try to meet deadlines where needed.
7.1 There may be times where I have to postpone or go past the deadline. I will avoid this where possible but any commission may be subject to extra delays due to unforeseen circumstances. See clause 1.1.
8.0 ALLERGY WARNING:
I HAVE CATS AND BIRDS.
Suits and parts are covered under a 30 day warranty.
9.1 I will repair items within a 30 day period free of charge providing the damages are deemed to be from problems in construction of the suit (i.e. they are my fault). Damage caused by stupidity, rough handling, incorrect use etc. are not covered under warranty.
If alterations or other repairs are required later, there may be a small fee for time or materials. Please contact as soon as there is an issue with your item.
Please note that eye domes that craze* after installation are out of my
control. This is a manufacturing and treatment issue - some may do it
while others do not. While crazing may appear over time, it is purely
superficial: it is not a structural problem. Craze lines may be
highlighted in certain lighting at certain angles but be completely
invisible at others. Please see point 12.0.
9.3 All items are to be clean and free of nasty smells before being returned for repairs or alterations.
9.4 If there is postage involved in return of items the commissioner will be responsible for covering post charges both ways.
9.5 I will NOT take kindly to people altering my work themselves. I expect my work to be treated with respect. Attempting to alter my work yourself immediately voids any warranty you may be entitled to.
10.0 LIMITED WARRANTY:
Pre-made items are sold 'as is'. 'As is' and discounted items with
faulty parts are not covered under full warranty. Existing faults will
generally not be repaired at any time, only unrelated defects arising
within a reasonable time after purchase. This includes items sold at con stalls.
Depending on the nature of the item I may be able to alter it if needed (body suits for example can be taken in to a point).
If it is easier to make an entirely new part I may suggest that.
Please consider the time required to carefully pull things apart and put them back together.
12.0 SUIT GUIDELINES:
- Submerge fursuit heads, feet or stuffed tails under water.
- Use hot water to clean faux furs.
- Dry in a clothes dryer or apply heat from a heater or hair dryer.
- Pick a head up by its ears or jaw. It WILL break!
- Excessively touch painted areas. Paint WILL rub off over time!
- Apply any chemical cleaners to eye domes. These will cause clouding or crazing!
CLEANING YOUR FURSUIT
Brush your fursuit and remove any grasses lodged in the fur. Take care and use small light strokes. If your fur sheds a lot, brush it holding the brush backwards so the bends in the bristles are facing the opposite way.
Spot clean heads and feet with diluted dish soap. Take care where paintwork is present.
Hand paws with silicone/latex pads or any kind of claws should be spot cleaned or hand washed only. Do not put in a washing machine.
To clean a body suit, hand wash in a bathtub or use a gentle cold setting on a front loading machine. Use a small amount of bleach-free, unscented detergent or dish washing liquid. It is best to wash suits with zippers done up while turned inside out. Spin on low speed in front loader to remove excess water.
Where tails are fitted with a zipper they may be un-stuffed and gently washed. When fully dry gently re-stuff, making sure to get an even fill. You may need to fluff up the stuffing if it has become compacted. Use a long rod to push stuffing down if you have trouble reaching the end.
Where tails have a foam insert in the base you must compact the foam before inserting through the zipper. Manoeuvre in to place before releasing and ensure it is snugly against the base fabric.
To dry lay your suit flat on a clothes horse or a table covered with a towel. Do not hang wet fur up or allow it to hang down or it may stretch.
You may dab with a towel to absorb excess water before leaving to dry.
Remember to dry the inside AND outside fully.
Do not leave your suit fur-side-out in direct sun too long on a hot or high UV day.
drying you may gently brush the damp fur with the fur direction with
short strokes to keep it tidy. Try to avoid leaving kinks in damp fur or
it will dry like that - this is why I put a towel over my clothes
Ensure all the fur is dry, including the base fabric, before storing your suit. Lightly scented dryer sheets make an excellent companion for your fursuit while stored. Place a few in the body and maybe even one in the head.
is a good idea to do a seam check before and after washing.